Saddam town

The guy was omnipresent. Everything and everywhere: Saddam, Saddam, Saddam. The Embassy is located in the Presidential Palace, gloriously expanded after 1991 to commemorate the 'great victory over the 30 nations'. This Arabic inscription adorns many of the walls. As well as Saddam's initials- they form a decorative motif found on tiles, fixtures, ceiling patterns and door panels- in brass, wood, marble, crystal, cement, mosaic and gold. Every room, every hallway- images to remind the occupant of The Guy In Charge. Several Saddam wall murals have been painted over and the sphinxish Saddam busts have been pulled from the roof, but erasing Saddam's presence from this place is futile. Tiny etchings of 1937, the year of Saddam's birth, can be discovered in the unlikeliest of decorative locations. I drove myself around on a tour of the IZ, the International or Green Zone, in an armored Suburban. Stopped by the 'crossed swords' (or the Hands of Victory) monument and crawled up into the left hand, led by an eager policeman-slash-tourguide. Like climbing through an Erector Set. I poked my head out of a window near the wrist. And yes, it was one of those 'oh my gosh- I'm such a tourist' moments. But I got over it at on a Venetian gondola, and I got over it here too. The immense hands were sculpted from molds taken from you know who. Knowing that does make a difference when you're there, inside a tight crawlspace within Saddam's fist. I could not be convinced to purchase a souvenir helmet, pried loose from the sculpture at the base. The helmets are from Iranian soldiers killed during the Iran-Iraq War. Another great victory for Saddam, that one was. I pulled back into the Embassy compound, after going through several checkpoints and ID inspections, and went back to my office. I marveled at the hideous green couches placed in a vaulted alcove in our wing. The only thing worse than their appearance is the amount of comfort they provide when sat upon. Apparently Saddam picked out every piece of furniture as well, so they say.