This is it. Again. Tomorrow morning I lift off from Baghdad International Airport and start the first leg of my return to the States. Over three years ago, in May 2005, I first arrived here; in May 2006 I completed my first tour with the Army. I've been back with the State Department since February 2007, bringing my in-country time to 29 months. I will be starting PhD studies at the University of Pittsburgh in the fall, working on a dissertation involving transnational political history and post-conflict governance.
I leave many friends in Baghdad, both old and new. The other night a group of us from the PRT hosted a gathering for some of my favorite Iraqi friends at the Palace. Tahseen Sheikhly and his family brought the muzguf; Shatha and Mahmoud, still very weak but just so determined to have a good time, also paid another visit; old friends such as former Governor of Baghdad Ali Fadel, district council members Mohammed al-Rubeiy and Kadem al-Shamary and a few others spent a few hours reminiscing as well as talking about the future. In an environment of such challenges, a few hours spent with such good friends is a welcome opportunity.
This week I attended a performance of the Iraqi National Symphony Orchestra. Despite a tremendous array of difficulties, this body of musical professionals continues to represent the artistic excellence of the Iraqi people.
I attended an awards ceremony for the graduating class of the Baghdad School of Fine Arts. We watched a few student films and browsed exhibits of paintings and photography done by students. Having some experience with artistic communities in various periods of my life, I have to say that there is definitely something universal about "art school students" no matter where you are -- even in Baghdad. I was asked to be a special guest presenter for the film portion of the awards ceremony, and most of the recipients would have looked completely at home at some of the parties I used to attend while living in Austin. Lots of 'flair.' Gratuitous use of hair care products. So many ways to be creative with a collar, and how far one decides to leave a shirt unbuttoned. And of course, some random girl who just had to wear a tiara.
A few of us went to a traditional Iraqi dinner and musical festival on Thursday evening. By the end of the night, nearly everyone was lined up around dance floor, participating in the traditional Iraqi group dance -- something like a combination between a conga line and the 'boot-scoot boogie.'
I was busy packing Friday afternoon when a good friend burst into my room and said: "Dan, the Government of Iraq needs your laptop for a cabinet meeting with the Prime Minister." A completely random set of circumstances led to the use of my Vaio as PM Maliki was briefed on the status of security operations and services in Sadr City. We are good friends with the Iraqi official who was setting up the meeting -- he ran into a snag and it was a no-brainer to step in and help. Sayeed is an example of the Iraqi that you never see on the news: a mid-level government employee who is patriotic, courageous, and completely dedicated to his profession and his people. I was honored to work with him in an official capacity -- and to know him as a friend and a man of honor. "Of course he can use my laptop, dude."
No doubt, I'm leaving on a high note; a few weeks ago under a daily barrage of rocket and mortar fire things did not look so bright. Signs of progress here can easily appear undone by a few acts of heinous violence. I believe that during my experiences of the past year and a half, which roughly coincide with the "surge" of troops and civilian personnel into Baghdad, I have seen tangible and irreversible momentum towards a better future in Iraq -- but I also leave with an acute awareness of the tremendous challenges yet to be faced here, by the residents of Baghdad as well as my civilian and military colleagues working to further this progress. I wish them all the best; to those who served before, to those who remain -- and to those who have paid the final sacrifice and will not return home. God bless you all.
